Braving the Rapids

After many years of living in the Philippines, I had finally set foot on Mindanao. Locals and travelers are intimidated to travel around here due to the conflicts between the Muslim and the army. But there are places worth seeing in Mindanao that are safe to travel to. This time, I came to Cagayan de Oro only for one thing and what it's famous for - white water rafting.

I've traveled by this rugged ship from Camiguin to Cagayan de Oro. It was just an hour ride, and then I took a bus to get to the city. To my surprise I felt like I was somewhere in Manila again. Nothing special around here, food stalls, traffic, pollution and beggars everywhere. It was not what I was expecting, and then I thought that I had to get somewhere out of the city to experience some hidden beauty. Then I found out that I had to stay here until the next day as the white water rafting would only start in the morning.

The next morning I was picked up by the rafting organizers, and I sat alone in this Jeepney with a group of locals from Manila. I sat there silently staring outside and expectantly waiting for some good nature around.

We got off somewhere our of the town and headed down to the river. Here I met another group of locals also taking the “advanced” river rafting. We were briefed about the basics, like how to paddle, how to turn and even what to say when we get passed the rocks and rough water.

And of course I was the only one not part of some family or traveling friends, so I was asked to choose a group I’m most comfortable with. I am not always comfortable with any groups, but with no other choice, I went with this family on this big blue raft.  It was rainy season that time and so the water was chocolaty but the nature around was a sight to behold. 

It seemed easy at the beginning, no sharp turns or anything. Just smoothly going with the flow and paddling forward.  I sat in the front beside one staff directing us what to do.  We finally came across some rough water and made some sharp turns avoiding the rocks, which was all part of the thrill. Nevertheless we still found ourselves swimming away during our break and did some little cliff diving along the way.

We saw other groups tipping over. I’m glad we didn't as we were extremely careful. We were followed by the staffs in another raft taking pictures all the way through the course. I got bored with this group I was with, and wished that I could have taken the more advanced rafting course. However I was told that I needed to be with some more experienced or more physically fit group of people due to huge drops, waves and some sharp maneuvering  I immediately thought of my friends from swimming back in Manila. It could have been more fun if they were here.

I knew that I might not be back here again so I pleaded the rafting guys to make me experience that two-man raft. After some careful consideration and a little bit of charisma, they finally agreed. The next thing I knew I was sitting in front of this small inflatable kayak. I was a bit nervous but excited. The guy at the back was helping me maneuver the raft with all his strength while I seemed to focus on just taking the ride of my life.  The water was splashing on to my face. The ride seemed more dangerous as I felt the sharp turns and drops.  The whole ride was exhilarating but fun. I would have chosen to be in this raft in the first place if I would be allowed to.  Nevertheless, I was thankful enough to experience the difference for a moment.  

I was taken back to the big raft and headed back. It was truly unforgettable. And once again I fulfilled something in my bucket list. It was one hell of a holiday.

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One Minute High

I came to Butuan City in Agusan del Norte only for one thing – the 1.3 km zipline. I just wanted to accomplish my mission of riding the so-called longest zipline in Asia. I didn't know any other places worth seeing here. I just knew that I wouldn't stay here for long.  Coming from Cagayan de Oro, I arrived in this strange city with no idea where to sleep as usual. I remember looking for a cheap guesthouse where I can put my stuff and rest for a bit, but I ended up in this small cage-like room with red lights and no windows. It was like a brothel or something. I was so scared to sleep here.

I fled and ran for my life. Even though it was only my paranoia but I’d rather be in total discomfort than sleep in that place. Thanks to this 24 hour McDonalds, my safe refuge.

Even though I was some sort of vegetarian and go-healthy that time, I felt like I had no other choice but to order fries.  After a few minutes I also escaped from the bright light and air conditioning, and found myself curled up on a small cold park bench.

I couldn't remember if I had really slept, but I woke up when a strange guy was trying to tell me something I did not understand. I fled for my life once again and headed to Delta Discovery Park for the zipline. And guess what, I was the first one to arrive. It was too early and I had to wait around for the staff to come in. I went to this natural pool nearby and I opened the whole resort. The water was so cold I could barely swim but anyway I enjoyed the whole place alone.

And at last for my real mission here, I was brought to the top seeing the magnificent view of Agusan del Norte. The next thing I knew I was like being tied up in a superman position. Honestly I was so nervous after seeing the whole stretch of line passing through the mountains. The staff insisted on putting some little parachute to reduce the speed but I preferred to be riding fast. My heart started to pump faster. With lots of zipline around the country, I waited for this moment where I can ride one for the first time. It looked like I had no choice but to submit to the staffs’ orders, with no time to chicken out. 

My fear was dissolved quickly when I started sliding.  It felt like I was going to crash towards the mountains, then the time seemed to have gone slow as I was having the most amazing view of my life. Just being there high above, I felt the bird’s power for a moment.  I was nearing the end of the line when I felt the sharp jolt.  And that was it.

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Bumming Around Bohol

I think of that famous Chocolate Hills and that little monkey called Tarsier whenever I hear about Bohol. I flew from Manila to Tagbilaran after a much deserved vacation from work, making Bohol as my first destination during my long holiday trip. I met a local working as a policeman who helped me get to Chocolate Hills and the Tarsier conservation place.  Chocolate hills are well, small greenish brown hills in the countryside. The hill is a beautiful work of nature alright, but also over hyped. It’s better to see it and be amazed for a moment then proceed to other interesting places this island offers.

Tarsier has become a major attraction here, claimed to be the smallest monkey in the world. From the Chocolate hills I was taken to this Tarsier conservation area where I met these little nocturnal primates. I found myself walking carefully as I did not want to be the cause of death of these cute creatures. I've heard that they go head banging to death when they get stressed.

Bohol is not just about the Chocolate hills and Tarsier. There’s the Loboc river, zipline, cave, Spanish colonial town and the old church. I preferred to explore the city only for a day as I was headed to where I always wanted to be - the beach.

I planned to spend a night in Alona beach in Panglao island just a few kilometers away from the city. It was getting uncomfortable as the policeman obviously wanted something in return after taking me to Panglao Island by motorbike. Money was not an option here.  I had this tendency to accept help and be naive. I learned this the hard way after being in dangerous situations during my travels. Fortunately the guy finally understood my need to be left alone, so I found my guesthouse by the beach and settled there.

Snorkeling and dolphin watching were the activities I came here for. However it was not like in Palawan where you get everything for around $15. No free seafood buffet, one whole day of island hopping or whatever. Prices are all separate unfortunately, and I think it’s really a rip-off. I was sharing a boat ride with these German couple who were complaining about paying for everything. We didn't see any dolphins after the dolphin watching tour. So we were just taken to this island for snorkeling to compensate for our unluckiness.  And yet here we were asked again to pay for a small boat to get to the middle of the sea. We didn't give in after much complaint, so we swam up to the middle with our snorkeling gears.  And finally, I've got my marine life experience of Bohol. 

Say cheese fish face. 

Tourist trap it is. I've seen bars, hotels and lines of foreigners sunbathing as I walked on the beach. Travelers talking to the same people and all that shit, I knew I wasn't going to stay here for long. I was sitting on the beach enjoying my solitude when this elderly couple passed by and talked to me. A friendly Filipina and his Hawaiian husband, the woman was asking me if I could go snorkeling with her husband the next day as it will be safer to go with someone out there in the sea. I told them that I was leaving for Camiguin. They seemed so nice but I have to move on due to my limited time. Nevertheless, they invited me for a dinner and they were like my family for a night. The couple were also inviting me to visit them in their rest house by the beach in Zambales before they go back to United States.  I failed to do so as I was caught up in the routine and all my domestic travels. I hope to visit them in the future.

They say that the best thing about travel is the people you meet, and this makes all the difference.

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It's Christmas Time in Camiguin

I remember when I was inside this fast craft traveling from Bohol, I heard the cries of mothers and their children as the boat braved the rough sea. I saw some nervous foreign travelers transferred to another seat. I could see the waves crashing toward the windows. But that didn't last for long, the sea calmed down and we all arrived in our destination safely.

It was Christmas Eve and I still had no place to stay. All hostels by the rocky beach seemed fully-booked and it was dark and quiet around. I had to make quick decisions that night, and I had already accepted that I would be spending Christmas Eve alone somewhere in this mysterious island.

I found myself swimming in this crowded hot spring resort late at night.  I thought I could stay awake until dawn but I felt really tired. So I crashed this empty security guard’s post as the heavy rain began to pour. Great, I didn't seem to mind where I was sleeping that night. I was exhausted and I all wanted to do was sleep. It was late and everyone was feasting and celebrating inside their homes. This was my night.

The security guards found me early that morning curled up on a small chair inside their post, and they all seemed bewildered for obvious reasons. These locals worked for the hot spring resort and they were all friendly and helpful. They shared their breakfast with me and we talked about how I ended up there. Then I was taken to this really cool locally owned guesthouse called “Enigmata”. It’s an artsy treetop lodge, with alternative-eco and tribal atmosphere. I was told that there was some celebration that previous night in there and all the guests had already left. It was good for me, the whole place was mine.

It was rainy all day but that didn't stop me to get to know this beautiful island through a 33 km motorbike day tour. My guide took me to hot and cold springs, underground cemetery, beaches and waterfalls. Travelers seemed intimidated to come here as this island is part of northern Mindanao.  And so all these natural attractions are still unspoiled by tourists, and out of all the places I've been to in this country, this volcanic island definitely stands out.

There’s a little sand island across where one can snorkel and swim in the clear waters. It’s a beautiful white sand beach where you can see the great view of Mt Hibok Hibok.  And here I met some friendly local travelers from Cagayan de Oro. 

No wild nightlife around here and it’s better that way. I've heard about the mushrooming foreign owned pricey guesthouses killing some local businesses like “Enigmata”. The foreign businessmen discovered the potential of this piece of hidden jewel and so they marry the locals to be entitled for land ownership, with the local women serving as their key to paradise. This is a typical scenario in the Philippine countryside and this is how a place becomes commercialized eventually.

This is one of the best islands I've been too and definitely worth seeing again. Everything that nature can offer, it's all in one island - Camiguin.

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Surf's Up in Siargao!

I came to Siargao to fulfill one thing in my Bucketlist - Learn some watersport. I was traveling around Visayas and Mindanao during my long Holiday Christmas vacation, started from Bohol Island and ended up in Siargao Island. And here is where I learned surfing. 

“It’s like the mafia. Once you’re in, you’re in. There’s no getting out.”

It was life-changing.

And I wonder how come I was spending the rest of my life elsewhere. Here in Siargao is where the real cool people hang out. Foreigners call this home forever. This is where the local surfer dudes live with their beautiful young French or Russian girlfriends. Surprisingly, it’s the other way around here.  The surfing mecca in Mindanao, a tear-drop shaped island in the Philippine Sea in the province of Surigao del Norte. Cloud 9 is the place to be, with a worldwide reputation for thick hollow tubes and one of the best known surfing waves in Siargao. And for the noobs like me, don’t you dare surf these waves yet. Or you die!

After enduring the 3 hour stormy boat ride from Surigao, seating on a hard bench of this over-sized banca with some tarp above to protect the passengers from heavy rain, I finally arrived. I took the motorbike taxi with roof and headed to the famous Cloud 9 to look for accommodation. I found the cheapest room in Ocean 101 resort for P500 a night. I was pretty sure I could still find some cheaper rooms in the neighborhood or some locals' place. But with the view of the crashing waves and the beautiful green scenery around, what else could I ask for. This is what happens when you have a job and you can splurge your salary for a mere 2 week vacation (sarcasm). No regrets.

Cloud 9 is not for the beginner, the whole beach stretch is a reef break. That means expect to get hurt here and there, blood and cuts on your hands and feet whenever you fall off the surfboard. The waves are crazy big but thank God there are some baby waves available for noobs just near Ocean 101 resort. I was a bit hesitant at first to try surfing because I was scared as usual. But this is what I came here for. I waited for a couple of hours for my instructor. And the fun began.

I could not count how many times I fell off the surfboard. I remembered my instructor saying that if one could not stand up, then he or she don't have to pay. But what a shame if other people did it and I could not. I did not give up. So I tried and tried, I did not care about the cuts, and bruises all over my body anymore. No guts, no glory. That moment, all I want was a chance to experience the whole ride.

I pushed myself upward once again, fighting the rushing waves below me. And very quickly I stood up and spread my legs for balance. I squatted a little bit and maintained this posture for a couple of seconds as the white water pushed me towards the shore. I was ecstatic. That moment I realized what those adrenaline junkies felt as they surf the waves. The rush. It was truly memorable. It was addicting. Right now I may not be as good as the others but from that moment on, I am still surfing.

Surfing is this hobby of these cool Siargao locals, I heard them one time saying, “it’s time to play”, in my language. This is what some young local girls with beautiful tanned bodies do after class or during class. Surf is life.

Surfing season is from April to October. The Siargao cup competition is one of the biggest international sporting events in the country held during late September or early October every year. You can go walk along the long wooden bridge of Cloud 9 and stay at the top to witness this momentous event.

What better way to celebrate New Year’s eve than to party with the surfers in this surfing paradise. The unforgettable Ocean 101’s buffet for the “Media Noche” with a few new-found friends completed my whole vacation. Club hopping afterwards with some travelers from all over the world, drinking and having fun as if it was our last night on earth. Life is a party.

Unfortunately my German friends failed to go with me to fulfill our island-hopping plan as promised. They came back to our guesthouse the next morning still drunk from New Year’s Eve partying, and spent their whole day sleeping.

Well there is my good Alice, a new friend who works in Ocean 101 and also my surfing instructor. She showed me around this laidback town on her motorbike. And just when I thought Siargao is only all about surfing, there’s this Magpupungko Beach with its amazing tidal pool and rock formations where children and some locals go cliff diving. Go rent a motorbike to explore the town or invite your friends to go with you for some island hopping.

My stay in Siargao gave me an alternative, a lifestyle I can choose should I get tired from traveling. This is the place where you want to live the eat-sleep-surf kind of life. 

Home is where the waves are.

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Life in Nha Trang

I still have these mixed feelings about Vietnam until now. But as we all know, a worst day in traveling is still better than a worst day in job. Traveling in Vietnam is just amazing however confusing. Living here is another thing. This is the first foreign country I lived in, and it is a totally different world for me. There are just things that you don’t have to understand, and I am not only talking about the language - lifestyle, way of doing things, young and old people, everyday routine etc. Take it or leave it. Five months of ups and downs, work, play, love, food, coffee and beach life.

Beach life.  What could be better than this.

I know that Vietnam does not have the best beach in the world, but for me, a beach is a beach. SSS – Sun, Sand, Saltwater. After spending glorious weeks in this humble town of Vung tau, I moved alone in this bigger city called Nha trang seeking a new adventure while enduring the 300+ km long distance relationship with Mosquito man.

My varied career now included a stint as a waitress, / secretary / graphics designer in this French Wine bar, thanks to my crazy French boss for teaching me all about these wines, giving me a bit of instant sophistication points minus stupidity.  Now I know that if someone’s opening a bottle of red wine, it won’t make me cringe, or now I know which glass to use for champagne. I can say now that the Red wine from Chile is the best. Would you like to have a glass or a bottle of Cabernet Sauvignon with that? 

Nha Trang City is bigger, more touristy and has a nicer beach compared to Vung tau. My friend call this little Russia, with all the Russian writings, travel agencies, bars and shops, all to cater for the Russian tourists. I will never forget that famous Sheraton hotel, serving as my landmark as I walked back to my guesthouse from work. And those nights when I take a long detour to walk along the shore just to feel the sand and hear the sound of the waves before I sleep. One of the best walks ever.

Nha trang is the local life. Amidst the high-rise hotels, resorts, Russian businesses and bars, you’ll still find street coffee shop, cheap beers, street food and the famous Vietnamese noodle soup “Pho” around the corner. If you know where to find these you can live very cheaply in this city. Thanks to the nice locals I became friends with during my stay here, they taught me how to live the local life.

It would have been easier if I have a motorbike, and I could have easily explored the whole Nha Trang in a day. Though I've learned how to ride a scooter in Bali, my confidence had gone down after seeing motorbike accidents, which seemed like a normal scene on the road. So I borrowed a friend’s bike. I knew that I have never really ridden a bicycle for a long time on the road and this is one of my weaknesses unfortunately. I gave it a chance like someone riding a bicycle for the first time. Panicking after seeing that truck behind me just resulted to a now forever scar on my right knee. 

Halloween was just ignored by the locals, probably their most uncelebrated time of the year. I was the emcee of the show as sexy Wednesday. Locals came in the bar in their normal outfit watching in amazement all these foreigners dressed up in their craziest costumes. Which by the way have gone too far after witnessing one of the folks dressed up as Hitler or those Russian girls wearing Nazi nurses costumes, inside the wine bar of French people. Sigh… HalloViet!

My career as an all-around employee came to an end, and left me bumming around the beach for a month. My routine consisted of grabbing my favorite Vietnamese baguette for breakfast, sitting on a low plastic chair in a street coffee shop, taking an enjoyable 4 km walk to my favorite vegetarian restaurant, sleeping on the beach in the afternoon and having occasional meet ups with Vietnamese friends.

Oh Nha Trang, you will be missed.

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Good Morning Vietnam!

 

It’s been a long time since I've written for my blog, and now it seems that I have all the time in the world to recall my journey in life for the past 8 months. I've struggled to be consistent in writing and keeping my creative juices flowing due to the following reasons - writer’s block, losing the confidence to write in English language or just being caught up in the moment of travel, as you can see in the huge time gaps between my posts. But let me announce that this is my very first post for this year, hooray!

I bought a new ukulele in Malaysia before I flew to Vietnam, signifying the beginning of a new journey. I was four months in Vietnam with varying and colorful experiences. I never knew the reason I have to fly to Vietnam and continue my journey, all I knew that time was that something was waiting for me there.

At 30, I still had no idea what to do in life. I went on this journey in hopes of figuring out what I want to do. I just go with the flow and let things unfold right before my eyes.

Hitchhiking and sleeping everywhere, I was back on the road again. And I realized that this was the end of my tramping, at least in this journey. Everything happens for a reason, and I  always have no idea at the beginning. And afterwards, I found myself knowing why things happened.

My first day in Vietnam was not so exciting. I was confused and helpless, with no direction at all. I found myself staying one more night in Vung tau beach, the closest beach to Ho Chi Minh City. I was supposed to stay in Ho Chi Minh City for a night, but my Vietnamese host cancelled right there and then. So I went straight to the beach, because this is the only place here where I can camp to save on accommodation costs. It was my third month on the road, traveled from Indonesia, Malaysia to Vietnam, a long slow travel and a long way to go.

I was not able to find a host and I found myself having to spend another night on the beach. I decided to delay my hitchhiking to Mui ne as it was really late in the afternoon, and it looks like Vietnam is not a perfect place for hitchhiking. People are not so friendly and communication is a big problem as most people cannot speak and understand English.

Crashing resort pools like I used to do in Bali, I did it once again in Vietnam. I felt like I was the only traveler in this small town, until I saw this man eating at the resort’s restaurant, a tourist I thought. And probably the only one in this town. At least someone was traveling in this part of Vietnam which is only popular among locals. I dropped my stuff in this resort and I went for a swim.

The salty air and the unlit beach stretch caught me. I was sitting in front of a one beach club I discovered, a perfect place for camping where I wouldn't be bothered. Feeling satisfied for whatever reason, happily listening to the crashing of the waves, I caught a glimpse of the same man from the resort next to this beach club. This made me curious more and more, what could he be doing here? I heard a faint conversation, I shrugged and let go of this curiosity until I saw him looking in my direction. I waited.

I turned around and he sat beside me. And of all places, he is from Russia. After all my experiences and stories about the Russian people, they are the last ones on earth I want to deal with. But being alone in this strange and unfriendly place, a friendly conversation would help. I was not looking for anything more, no friendship or whatever. Just a nice little human interaction before I hitchhike to Mui ne the next day.

I was completely untrusting, not believing that a man could really help without wanting anything in return. But all the strange circumstances eventually lead me to this man, no matter how hard I controlled my feelings, avoiding any more drama after that one in Bali.

Exchange of stories illuminated everything, as to why I was spending a night on the beach and why this Russian man was astonishingly staying in Vietnam for the past 7 months. I sang him this popular song with my ukulele just as what I've been doing to the strangers I met, to keep both sides entertained, to give something back in exchange for a warm conversation.  It just was one night of knowing each other’s life, a one long conversation of broken English. He would become again one of those people I've met on the road, whom I had a nice conversation with and a friendship for only a certain period. And then I thought, I would eventually move on, and we were all just passing through.

My mosquito man, a superhero we made up after being eaten alive by mosquitoes, the rooftop of a small seemingly abandoned building nearby became our safe refuge, from rats, mosquitoes and Vietnamese men. That was also after discovering that my tent was broken (series of unfortunate events) I was tired and sleepless, and the rooftop floor with some small cushions we brought from the beach club became a luxury for me. I slept soundly for a few hours aware of being watched. The dawn is breaking. . . I witnessed the sun rising from the sea symbolizing a new beginning.

Good morning Vietnam, day 2!

Mui ne was delayed days and days after, due to strangely unforeseen circumstances such as, my broken tent, the death of my underwater camera and an attempt to resurrect it by having a small trip with Mosquito man to Saigon. Several days after I was still unattached, emotionally and physically as I was fighting hard not to get into some kind of relationship, but days went on and reasons unfolded. This was not another relationship. This was one thing that found me. I let go and I gave myself a chance.

My travel route was changed for good, it lead me to a new destination called LOVE, my mosquito man, my now love, whom I met at the strangest moment of my life.

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To Have Loved and Lost - Goodbye Ukulele

I realized that I have this strong attachment to my ukulele. Attached to the music and joy it brings, that no one else could ever give. Though I’m not really that good yet, playing it just makes me feel better. Just being able to play songs that I like, hearing it, feeling it, being there in the moment. I become totally present. When I play music, I suddenly forget that there are annoying people in this world. I just become totally oblivious to the outside things. Finally, I thought, I found something that really makes me happy. No human intervention needed.  

When I was once in front of KFC near our flat, I asked some middle-aged men if I could play a song for them. I played “I’m yours”. I was not really expecting they’d give me money in return. I felt happy, I admit. I was just really kind of experimenting if I could really entertain someone with my ukulele. So here comes my future career. 

My friend was driving the scooter down the mountains as we went back home from Batur Volcano in Bali. When suddenly I realized that my ukulele was missing. We couldn't go back anymore. There was a slim chance of finding it as I was not even sure where I left it. It was dark and cold, a long drive back home. I couldn't grasp reality. I was really sad.

Few weeks later, I was in Kuala Lumpur, and it was not easy. From beach life to city, I had a relapse. The reality of the moment would not sink in. I left my heart in Bali. I had become attached to my life in the beach, and being in the city was a total shock for me. I had been here four years ago, and I never really like going back to the same place. But thanks to this cheap flight from Bali, it left me with no choice but to be back here. I was confused as to what to do, no plans or anything.

And worst, no ukulele. My only comfort and refuge, I felt alone.The moment of acceptance came, and I just hope that whoever’s that lucky person who might have gotten my little piece of joy would love it as much as I had loved it. Finally I’m letting it go.

Goodbye my ukulele.

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The Bali High - Psychedelic Mushroom

Someone told me about this magic mushroom in Bali that I should try, the so-called “Trip to the moon”. I tried marijuana before when I was young and they say this one is different. Magic mushroom is legal in Bali, and of course I am very much into experiencing a new state of highness. I saw in Kuta beach that the Balinese guys were mixing it with some shake or soda. So my friend I’m traveling with in Bali bought some shrooms, and then we went home. For the first time, I tried it raw, well I actually had it as rice topping. It was really tasteless and boring. And then I thought that there was really no effect. So I did my usual stuff, finished my dinner, took a bath and drank a little bit of Bintang beer. . .

After 1 hour . . .

I felt the sands everywhere on our bed. So I tried cleaning the sheets, convinced that the bed was really full of sands. I didn't know why simple tasks were kind of hard to do that time. I usually want to organize our stuff in our flat, but I just couldn't do anything. I couldn't sleep on a bed full of sands! I exclaimed. It shouldn't be like that because I was not in the beach. And to my disbelief, the sands wouldn't go away.  I just couldn't stop laughing. Then suddenly it hit me. I had to put some effort to stand up straight, and it felt like I’m going to fall down on my knees. Suddenly everything was just funny for no reason at all.

I’d forgotten about the sands-on-the-bed problem, so I went outside. To my amazement, the trees were so green. I felt my eyes became wide that everything was so sharp. And then I remember saying that things were all in 3D, especially that special tree in front of me. Although, I know that things are really in 3D, or 4D? I don’t know if this psychedelic experience made me smart or just made me more stupid.

Oh yeah, I went from laughing hysterically to crying non-stop until late, brought about by some not so good human experience. I saw myself switching from my normal-abnormal life to bipolar mode. The sudden shift of mood was overwhelming, and I had totally forgotten about the good trippy experience afterwards. And the Bali drama started.

I was a bit cautious about taking too much and that’s why probably I didn't get to the point of extreme psychedelic experience. I got the mild one I guess, accompanied with mood swings and heightened senses. When the colors became so sharp, then for me it was a good experience enough.

You can actually buy the mushrooms everywhere in Kuta, which would cost you around 50000 rupiah for one small pack. But if you look like a local, you could get it for less than that. We are cheapskates, so we found a way to have some for free.  We actually looked for it in some farms and picked it up ourselves, as you could easily find these shrooms growing on cow shit, no kidding! We were the secret mushroom gatherers. So yeah, as we traveled around Bali, we found ourselves looking for some cows and their shit everywhere.

The second time I tried magic mushrooms was when I was in Kuta beach one night. My friend and I were walking along the shore, then we got invited a couple of times by some Balinese guys and some travelers singing and drinking together. However that time, I tried to avoid people as I was under the influence of mushroom, and I was just paranoid that they would notice. I was being funny actually. And then at the same time, I was also afraid that I might do something stupid around these people. So we left the group and walked away.

It was full moon. We just lay down on the sand and watched the clouds moved across the night sky. Everything around me was so amazing. I've never felt so happy, everything was so real. We walked on the soft sand in the dark while the waves crashed against the shore relentlessly. The shore under the full moon was just astonishing to watch as the water swept back and forth, and we could feel the pull of the tide as we tried to escape. That moment was truly unforgettable. It was so beautiful and romantic . . . with or without my psychedelic mushroom . . . .

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A Piece of Heaven

One of the reasons why I went to Bandung was to visit “Kawah Puti” or the Sulfur Lake. A stunning crate lake located 50 km south of Bandung in West Java Indonesia. This is one of the craters of this inactive volcano called Mount Patuha. I learned about this place from my host in Bukitinngi in Sumatra. When I was staying with her, I really had no idea as to what to see in Java. Then she recommended me this lake and showed me some pictures of it. I was amazed. The place looks really interesting for me as I haven’t seen anything like it before. I hitchhiked from Jakarta to Bandung then I was hosted by these nice, young guys in this cool and laid back town called Jatinanggor. I was truly having a good time with my host and his friends from the university. I stayed here for 5 days. Then later on, I felt that I have to visit this "Kawah Puti" on my own because sometimes I just have to be alone to reflect on things. My host was really understanding, and so he took me to the bus station for Bandung early in the morning the next day.

The heavy traffic in Bandung made me itch to hitchhike again. However the small van moved past the traffic finally, and then I arrived quite a bit late in the afternoon. I insisted to take a walk for a few minutes and luckily the people there let me in. And there was no entrance fee, well, not that I know of. I've never felt so free and peaceful. Though I haven’t reached the lake yet, the first kilometer has already a beautiful sight to behold. The surrounding area was heavily forested, it was foggy and I could smell the sulfur along the way. A few vehicles passed by, but most of the time I had the whole road for myself. It was one those unforgettable walks, just me and nature. What more could I ask for.

It was really getting cold. It was four more kilometers to the top, so eventually I had to hitchhike to the crater. Just when I thought that I’m going to walk all the way, a public van with only one person inside stopped in front of me finally. And I asked the driver:

Me: “Boleh saya numpang?”

Driver: “Boleh”

Me: “Boleh saya numpang?”

Driver: “Boleh”

….

I was waiting for a yes, ya or no, and then l realized later what “Boleh” means. So he was like saying, “Yes you can!” I felt really stupid. It was that very funny moment, and the Indonesians I met just laughed their hearts out when they heard this story.

When I arrived, I didn't see any foreigners or white people around here, probably because they were all flocking in Bali. So almost all the signs are written in Bahasa, and as much as I want to get to know more about the place that time, I couldn't understand all the information posted at the entrance. It was pretty understandable as I saw that most of the visitors are just locals.

I was blown away. Nature could really be this amazing. What my host in Bukitinggi told me was true. It was really like heaven on earth, one could go snorkeling in search for angels underneath. The lake was whitish green with the yellow sulfur mud around it. It was misty and cold, a magical place indeed. It was really chilly and I could barely stay in one place. So I walked around and saw a couple having their prenup photoshoot somewhere away from the crowd, and I wouldn't be surprised. I think that this is a unique place to have a mystical theme for a wedding, and how romantic is that!

I really cherished my time here, it was just perfect solitude. It was my “now” back then. That time I was really present. But it became my past now, and I’m remembering it for my own pleasure. You know those times when you are happy even though you are alone. And it would be even better if you are in a beautiful place, and that will be 100% pure happiness. I could imagine many things in this place, or even create my own dreams and alter reality. I could see myself wasting my time here, even if I choked to death by sulfur. I wouldn't mind. Then I’d become the angel underneath, and I’ll say “this is my own piece of heaven”.

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The Lemon Tree Day

I’m inside my room and I look outside, the sky is gloomy. I feel so low and I couldn't go out or do anything. I’m just not in the mood. A few hours ago I was just playing this Lemon Tree song with my ukulele. Then suddenly it hit me . . .

I'm sitting down here in the boring room

It's just another rainy Sunday afternoon

I'm wasting my time

I got nothing to do

I'm hanging around I'm waiting for you

But nothing ever happens

And I wonder . . .

I am watching myself right now. One teardrop, two, three . . . I couldn't stop. I've never felt so low before. This is the first time this has ever happened since I left.

I wonder how

I wonder why

Yesterday you told me 'bout the blue, blue sky

And all that I can see is just a yellow lemon tree

I'm turning my head up and down

I'm turning, turning, turning, turning, and turning around

And all that I can see is just another lemon tree

I was thinking about the places I couldn't visit. All the things that went wrong couldn't escape my mind, was it just because I didn't work hard enough. I couldn't understand why I couldn't stop comparing myself to others.

Yesterday someone told me about the blue, blue sky, and all I can I see is just a yellow lemon tree . . . Desperation. Everything went inside my head all at the same time, what I should do, where to go from here, why I couldn't do it. I’m sinking . . . .

I'm sitting here

I miss the power

I'd like to go out

Taking a shower

But there's a heavy cloud inside my head

I feel so tired, put myself into bed

But nothing ever happens

And I wonder

Worry, loneliness, depression and suffering. I’m all over the place. Where did all these come from? DESIRES. I am tired of wanting. I don’t want to want anything. I watch myself. I know this is not me. This is the pain-body attacking me. I am not tied to any of these feelings. There is no such thing as pursuit of happiness. It’s already right here, right now, in me. I just couldn't see it but I know I will. I just need to hit the bottom so hard that in the end I wouldn't be able to feel anything anymore.

I don’t know if I should still use the past and future tense here. It does not seem right to follow these grammatical rules anymore. There is no time. This could be my last day. I’ll play the Lemon Tree with my ukulele until I’m good at it.

Isolation is not good for me

Isolation

I don't want to sit on a lemon tree

I'm stepping around in the desert of joy

Maybe anyhow I'll get another toy

And everything will happen

And you'll wonder

I have to let it all go and keep the past dead. There’s no tomorrow anymore, the future is a mystery. I wouldn't wait for someone to move the mountains for me. There are no other places to go to in this world, there is only here. There is no other time, there is only now. There is no one else but me.

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Lost and Found

As Albert Einstein said, we have to decide whether we live in a friendly or hostile universe. I choose the friendly universe. When I decided to travel, I trust that the universe is kind and that it will provide. A few years back, I couldn’t go anywhere on my own because I just couldn't trust anyone. I guess I was just one of those people trapped in fear. Then suddenly I woke up from this long dream. I feel different. I still don’t know what exactly happened, but it felt like yesterday I was still in this small box.  Then all of a sudden a small portal just opened in front of me. Oh this could be the bright side. I knew that there must be something better on the other side. The unknown is quite scary, but it always makes me curious. And so I went in.

I remember when I was hitchhiking in Sumatra, I got dropped somewhere in Pekanbaru city coming from Dumai. It was quite late in the afternoon and I was confused as to what to do. I didn't know if I am going to stay in the city or just head on straight to this small town called Bukitinggi. So I tried hitchhiking again, but it was kind of difficult to wait for a ride in this big city.  Just when I was about to leave, a car stopped in front of me. A young local guy asked me where I was going, and I was lucky that he was heading to the same direction. This was how I met Billie.

I was in his car for another 6 hours, but then I never felt bored or tired with him. I've seen the most beautiful scenery in west Sumatra along the way. We exchanged stories and found ourselves laughing about stuff. He was really a funny guy, and very determined to practice his English. He was so nice enough to drop me right in front of my host’s house late that night. We said goodbye to each other then he continued his journey to this island in Padang.

Next morning I realized that my wallet was missing, so I panicked. All my bank cards were there. I searched my host’s place and I couldn't find it. Until I realized that I might have left it in Billie’s car. I called him and there was no answer. I really didn't have any money or anything with me. I was thinking that Billie might be spending some time in the island with his friend, and I’m worried that my wallet might not be in his car too. I was trying to think where I might have left it, then I thought of this small restaurant where we ate somewhere in the town the other night. But I was hoping that I didn't leave it there as there was a slim chance of getting it back.  I couldn't travel anywhere as I was just really frustrated about my negligence.

I called Billie again that afternoon and he answered. To my relief, he told me that I left my wallet in his car. And he was willing to drop it in my host’s place on his way back home. And he did it. I met him again the next day and he returned my wallet. I was really happy and grateful that there’s still someone like Billie in this world. I couldn't imagine all the hassles of getting new bank cards due to my carelessness. It was the nicest thing a person had ever done to me. I will always be thankful for that.

I always trust in the kindness of the universe. I know that it’s a bit challenging to be positive at all times considering that there are worse things happening around us, and it makes us lose faith in humanity. As I move around and travel more, I learned that things will always work out just fine in the end. I met people along the way, and It's proven that it’s still part of human nature to help one another. Everywhere I went, I experienced the true kindness of people. I remembered that a few months ago, I was so worried about the things that will happen today. But then everything turned out ok eventually however difficult things could be from the start. In this lifetime I think I had already overcome the worst situations and passed through various obstacles. By now I had gotten used to this. My immunity level is so high I couldn't feel anything anymore. I will always believe in what Anthony de Mello said, “Though everything is a mess, all is well”. So there is no sense in worrying about the future or what’s going to happen. It comes soon enough. And if things didn't turn out as expected, then we just have to learn from the experience and move on.

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Hitchin' A Ride in Sumatra

I remember when I first tried hitchhiking some four years ago in Thailand, I was like “what the hell are we doing?” Can we just take a bus or something, I was scared, shy and it felt a little weird. I've seen hitchhiking in some movies but I never thought it’s possible in real life. Then I went back home and tried it again, and again and again. And so now, this is I how travel. 

Before I left Philippines, I was doing some research about hitchhiking in Indonesia. I read in some Couchsurfing group about the people who were successful in doing it. As I arrived in Sumatra, I've heard from locals about the dangers of traveling here. I know that danger is everywhere, but who cares now. I know now how to trust my instincts and decide quickly should danger arise.  I've probably learned this skill when I was still living in my city. I got used to anticipating dangers especially when I was commuting at night in Manila. Sometimes I felt more unsafe in my own city than in any other place in this world.

I’m quite lucky that my host in Dumai in North Sumatra is very much familiar with this kind of travel. He had already hosted a lot of travelers from all over the world who hitchhiked in Indonesia. Hearing this, I got excited. That time I couldn't wait to get out of Riau and head to Padang. As you know, most of the locals are not open to this kind of traveling, and expect them to bombard you with warnings until you get so scared you won’t do it anymore. I guess I got so immune to this, although sometimes I could make use of some precautions here and then. I got to understand that it’s normal for them to worry, especially when they are not so used to a foreign woman traveling alone and hitchhiking. But of course I don’t let all their warnings stop me from traveling this way. It also pays to be extra careful sometimes, and it's totally normal to protect your life in every chance that you have. So in the end, I was successful in hitchhiking in Indonesia. And now my memory is loaded with amazing experiences with people I met on the road. 

My host dropped me in the middle of the hazy highway somewhere in Dumai where I could easily get a ride. Riau was full of smoke due to forest fires, a big issue in Sumatra that time. It was like that scene in Silent Hill. Only it was not scary, it was a health hazard and it was very annoying. It was kind of hard to look around as my eyes hurt due to the haze. It was really bad. It was good that I didn't have to wait for a long time to get a ride. 

My favorite one was when I was in a coffee truck. I was lucky that the driver,  this nice old guy could speak a little bit of English, so we could understand each other a little bit. He dropped me somewhere in Pekanbaru, and then he gave me some coffee. He just snatched some packs of local instant coffee at the back of his truck and handed it to me, just like that. It was really funny!

My advantage I guess is that I look like a local here. So the car and truck drivers who passed by were just curious as to what this Indonesian woman doing on the side of the highway, alone with all her luggage and stuff. And so they stopped and asked me as to where I was going, in Bahasa of course.

My hitchhiking trip in Sumatra is really unforgettable. I've met a lot of amazing people along the way. And I was able to learn a little bit of Bahasa too, thanks to my English teacher host in Dumai. I lost the list that he wrote for me, but I've had it all memorized as I've used all it most of the time during my travel here. So I’m gonna end this post with some useful phrases you can use for hitchhiking in Indonesia.

Boleh saya numpang? – May I get a free ride?

Saya turun disini – I get off here

Saya numpang saja – I hitchhike only / free ride only

Mau kemana? – Where are you going?

Saya mau ke “Padang” (Name of a city in Sumatra) – I go to Padang

Terima kasih – Thank you

Hati-hati – Take care

Utama ke? – Highway to?

Tidak mengerti – I don’t understand

Sebelum “Padang”, ok – Before “Padang”, ok.

Sesudah “Padang”, ok – After “Padang”, ok.

Saya tidak punya uang – I don’t have much money.

Dimana saya? – Where am I?

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