Border Crossing Laos-Cambodia

Before I parted ways with a travel buddy whom I traveled with from Thailand to Laos, his final advice was to take the Pakse route to cross the border to Cambodia. So I got off from an exhausting and torturous overnight bus ride from Vientiane (Lao Capital) to Pakse.  And mind you, that was not a pleasant ride, as passengers were all packed inside, not to mention the full blast Lao music being played the whole time. People were trying to sleep and yet no one seemed to notice, no one even dared to ask the driver to lower the volume at least. Well then I realized that it could be that the driver was just trying to stay awake as it would be a very long journey.

Based on my research, I still have to take another ride to get to the border. It was early in the morning and I haven’t eaten anything yet. My only goal was just to get to Cambodia as soon as possible. I boarded a passenger pick up truck and waited for a couple of minutes more until it was full, and so there I was, along with the locals and their sacks of vegetables, corns and fruits all jam-packed inside. There were also three traveler guys inside, a sign of relief for me.  At least I’m not the only one.

At last the pickup truck started to move, and I was worried about the bus schedule. But when I got off to the nearest border, the buses had already left at an impossible schedule earlier that morning. I was fucked up and some backpackers were all waiting there, not to cross the border but to get to this island somewhere in the south of Laos. I was not really interested in staying for one more day in some island. I had a very limited time left and I need to stick to my plan, which was to get to Cambodia to see more places, and finally get to Thailand in time to catch a plane back home.

The local guys suggested an alternative option. There was another border a few of kilometers away and if I hurry I would be able to catch the buses there going to Cambodia.  But the only way to get there is to ride a motorcycle for a couple of dollars. I took that option, but as I rode at the back of the motorcycle, I felt a twinge of fear inside me. We passed by deserted roads with only trees in sight. I knew I was just being paranoid but I had reason to be, no signs of human anywhere I looked, it was just me and the driver. For all I know, I could be dragged in those trees anytime. And all I wanted was just to get to that damn border in no time. Alas! It rained all of a sudden, and the driver pulled over. I was really scared that moment, so I asked him to just go on and not to worry about me getting wet by the rain. I told him that I need to catch a bus going to Cambodia ASAP, and good thing he obeyed right away.

Well I know I already have too much introduction here, and yes we’re just about to get to the fun part. I just want to keep you entertained. As much as I want to make this story short, there are just too many details which I don’t want my readers to miss.

But anyway, thank goodness I reached the border at last. So the motorcycle driver was speaking in Lao to the border officer at the immigration office. So I gave the officer my passport so I could be stamped out of Laos. Unfortunately he said that the buses going to Phom Penh (Cambodia’s capital) had already left. So there I was, got left behind once again!  So I was calculating my options that time, I couldn't think clearly anymore.  I was really dead tired, sleepless and hungry. I told the officer that I’ll probably just cross the border first and catch a ride from there. He told me that it's impossible, no other buses were coming and of course I would have to pay more to rent a taxi, which costs almost half of what I've got left in my pocket. I didn't want to go back or stay one more night somewhere as I was running out of time and money.

I told the border officer that I’ll worry about it later. All I could think of that time was just to cross that border. So he asked me some money, like what the hell? I told him that I've never read in any guidebooks or I've never heard from anyone that I have to pay just to get stamped out of Laos. After all that I've went through, the guy still has the nerve to rip me off! So I argued with the guy with no fear or anything, and yes he looked scary, you know like those communist officers in the war movies, but I didn't care.

I was like telling him that I’m just a poor traveler and I can’t be ripped of just like that. I told him that I have a friend who crossed that same border and that he didn't have to pay (That was actually a lie). I pointed out that I’m already getting out of Laos, and that paying for the stamp doesn't make any sense. I made a big deal out of everything that I paid for, no matter how much it was, as I’m already in the last days of my travel, and the little money that I got left just made me even more worried and desperate.

I found myself fighting with the border officer. He finally said that everyone has to pay to cross the border which I didn't believe. I told him that it's not fair and all. Surprisingly the motorcycle driver was still standing there, watching the whole scene. He left when he felt that it was already a hopeless case and that he was not much of a help. I felt numb not knowing what to do, so I just sat on the front steps of the immigration office like a loser. I felt sad as I looked at the border which is just a couple of steps away and I was already imagining myself running towards it. I felt so alone. I wondered why there were not much people going to this border, unlike in any other areas.

Actually I was not thinking of what to do anymore, I was just observing and probably just waiting for a miracle to happen. Then a van stopped in front of me, a Lao family with monks inside. I watched the local man and woman got off, they passed by me and went straight to the immigration office.

And of course they got stamped out, but to my disbelief, they paid! Oh my God, what the officer said was true! Everyone really has to pay, and yes even the locals. I was embarrassed and I felt I was going to die at that moment. After they left, I knew everyone’s eyes was on me.  I was really ashamed of myself, and in the end I still paid. I couldn't even look at the border officer straight in the eye. He was serious that moment and did not say anything. He could have probably laughed at me when I left. Well, he has all the reasons to and I surely deserve it. That was a remote border less traveled, mostly likely the reason why there's a charge for getting stamped out.

So I was finally crossing the border literally, walking with my head down, not yet knowing how to get to the nearest town in Cambodia. As I walked, that same van passed by me and the man rolled the window down and called me. He asked where I was going, I told them to the nearest town where there's a guesthouse, I really needed to change and get some rest, wherever it’s possible. So I was lucky that they let me hitched their ride and they were all nice. The man told me that he and his family including the monks were going to a temple in Cambodia. I narrated to them what happened and how I missed the bus and all that.  They said that they were worried when they saw me sitting alone outside. So they dropped me to a guesthouse in the city of Stung Treng then I said goodbye and thanked them. I even offered to pay for the ride but they ignored it. I was really thankful that I found such nice and helpful people.

That was my border-crossing adventure. That might be my worst day in traveling but still better than a worst day in my job. I will never forget those people who crossed my path as they made my travel adventures truly unforgettable. 

Lesson learned? Hmm, too much paranoia will lead you nowhere, and of course know when to trust someone!