Braving the Rapids

After many years of living in the Philippines, I had finally set foot on Mindanao. Locals and travelers are intimidated to travel around here due to the conflicts between the Muslim and the army. But there are places worth seeing in Mindanao that are safe to travel to. This time, I came to Cagayan de Oro only for one thing and what it's famous for - white water rafting.

I've traveled by this rugged ship from Camiguin to Cagayan de Oro. It was just an hour ride, and then I took a bus to get to the city. To my surprise I felt like I was somewhere in Manila again. Nothing special around here, food stalls, traffic, pollution and beggars everywhere. It was not what I was expecting, and then I thought that I had to get somewhere out of the city to experience some hidden beauty. Then I found out that I had to stay here until the next day as the white water rafting would only start in the morning.

The next morning I was picked up by the rafting organizers, and I sat alone in this Jeepney with a group of locals from Manila. I sat there silently staring outside and expectantly waiting for some good nature around.

We got off somewhere our of the town and headed down to the river. Here I met another group of locals also taking the “advanced” river rafting. We were briefed about the basics, like how to paddle, how to turn and even what to say when we get passed the rocks and rough water.

And of course I was the only one not part of some family or traveling friends, so I was asked to choose a group I’m most comfortable with. I am not always comfortable with any groups, but with no other choice, I went with this family on this big blue raft.  It was rainy season that time and so the water was chocolaty but the nature around was a sight to behold. 

It seemed easy at the beginning, no sharp turns or anything. Just smoothly going with the flow and paddling forward.  I sat in the front beside one staff directing us what to do.  We finally came across some rough water and made some sharp turns avoiding the rocks, which was all part of the thrill. Nevertheless we still found ourselves swimming away during our break and did some little cliff diving along the way.

We saw other groups tipping over. I’m glad we didn't as we were extremely careful. We were followed by the staffs in another raft taking pictures all the way through the course. I got bored with this group I was with, and wished that I could have taken the more advanced rafting course. However I was told that I needed to be with some more experienced or more physically fit group of people due to huge drops, waves and some sharp maneuvering  I immediately thought of my friends from swimming back in Manila. It could have been more fun if they were here.

I knew that I might not be back here again so I pleaded the rafting guys to make me experience that two-man raft. After some careful consideration and a little bit of charisma, they finally agreed. The next thing I knew I was sitting in front of this small inflatable kayak. I was a bit nervous but excited. The guy at the back was helping me maneuver the raft with all his strength while I seemed to focus on just taking the ride of my life.  The water was splashing on to my face. The ride seemed more dangerous as I felt the sharp turns and drops.  The whole ride was exhilarating but fun. I would have chosen to be in this raft in the first place if I would be allowed to.  Nevertheless, I was thankful enough to experience the difference for a moment.  

I was taken back to the big raft and headed back. It was truly unforgettable. And once again I fulfilled something in my bucket list. It was one hell of a holiday.

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One Minute High

I came to Butuan City in Agusan del Norte only for one thing – the 1.3 km zipline. I just wanted to accomplish my mission of riding the so-called longest zipline in Asia. I didn't know any other places worth seeing here. I just knew that I wouldn't stay here for long.  Coming from Cagayan de Oro, I arrived in this strange city with no idea where to sleep as usual. I remember looking for a cheap guesthouse where I can put my stuff and rest for a bit, but I ended up in this small cage-like room with red lights and no windows. It was like a brothel or something. I was so scared to sleep here.

I fled and ran for my life. Even though it was only my paranoia but I’d rather be in total discomfort than sleep in that place. Thanks to this 24 hour McDonalds, my safe refuge.

Even though I was some sort of vegetarian and go-healthy that time, I felt like I had no other choice but to order fries.  After a few minutes I also escaped from the bright light and air conditioning, and found myself curled up on a small cold park bench.

I couldn't remember if I had really slept, but I woke up when a strange guy was trying to tell me something I did not understand. I fled for my life once again and headed to Delta Discovery Park for the zipline. And guess what, I was the first one to arrive. It was too early and I had to wait around for the staff to come in. I went to this natural pool nearby and I opened the whole resort. The water was so cold I could barely swim but anyway I enjoyed the whole place alone.

And at last for my real mission here, I was brought to the top seeing the magnificent view of Agusan del Norte. The next thing I knew I was like being tied up in a superman position. Honestly I was so nervous after seeing the whole stretch of line passing through the mountains. The staff insisted on putting some little parachute to reduce the speed but I preferred to be riding fast. My heart started to pump faster. With lots of zipline around the country, I waited for this moment where I can ride one for the first time. It looked like I had no choice but to submit to the staffs’ orders, with no time to chicken out. 

My fear was dissolved quickly when I started sliding.  It felt like I was going to crash towards the mountains, then the time seemed to have gone slow as I was having the most amazing view of my life. Just being there high above, I felt the bird’s power for a moment.  I was nearing the end of the line when I felt the sharp jolt.  And that was it.

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Bumming Around Bohol

I think of that famous Chocolate Hills and that little monkey called Tarsier whenever I hear about Bohol. I flew from Manila to Tagbilaran after a much deserved vacation from work, making Bohol as my first destination during my long holiday trip. I met a local working as a policeman who helped me get to Chocolate Hills and the Tarsier conservation place.  Chocolate hills are well, small greenish brown hills in the countryside. The hill is a beautiful work of nature alright, but also over hyped. It’s better to see it and be amazed for a moment then proceed to other interesting places this island offers.

Tarsier has become a major attraction here, claimed to be the smallest monkey in the world. From the Chocolate hills I was taken to this Tarsier conservation area where I met these little nocturnal primates. I found myself walking carefully as I did not want to be the cause of death of these cute creatures. I've heard that they go head banging to death when they get stressed.

Bohol is not just about the Chocolate hills and Tarsier. There’s the Loboc river, zipline, cave, Spanish colonial town and the old church. I preferred to explore the city only for a day as I was headed to where I always wanted to be - the beach.

I planned to spend a night in Alona beach in Panglao island just a few kilometers away from the city. It was getting uncomfortable as the policeman obviously wanted something in return after taking me to Panglao Island by motorbike. Money was not an option here.  I had this tendency to accept help and be naive. I learned this the hard way after being in dangerous situations during my travels. Fortunately the guy finally understood my need to be left alone, so I found my guesthouse by the beach and settled there.

Snorkeling and dolphin watching were the activities I came here for. However it was not like in Palawan where you get everything for around $15. No free seafood buffet, one whole day of island hopping or whatever. Prices are all separate unfortunately, and I think it’s really a rip-off. I was sharing a boat ride with these German couple who were complaining about paying for everything. We didn't see any dolphins after the dolphin watching tour. So we were just taken to this island for snorkeling to compensate for our unluckiness.  And yet here we were asked again to pay for a small boat to get to the middle of the sea. We didn't give in after much complaint, so we swam up to the middle with our snorkeling gears.  And finally, I've got my marine life experience of Bohol. 

Say cheese fish face. 

Tourist trap it is. I've seen bars, hotels and lines of foreigners sunbathing as I walked on the beach. Travelers talking to the same people and all that shit, I knew I wasn't going to stay here for long. I was sitting on the beach enjoying my solitude when this elderly couple passed by and talked to me. A friendly Filipina and his Hawaiian husband, the woman was asking me if I could go snorkeling with her husband the next day as it will be safer to go with someone out there in the sea. I told them that I was leaving for Camiguin. They seemed so nice but I have to move on due to my limited time. Nevertheless, they invited me for a dinner and they were like my family for a night. The couple were also inviting me to visit them in their rest house by the beach in Zambales before they go back to United States.  I failed to do so as I was caught up in the routine and all my domestic travels. I hope to visit them in the future.

They say that the best thing about travel is the people you meet, and this makes all the difference.

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It's Christmas Time in Camiguin

I remember when I was inside this fast craft traveling from Bohol, I heard the cries of mothers and their children as the boat braved the rough sea. I saw some nervous foreign travelers transferred to another seat. I could see the waves crashing toward the windows. But that didn't last for long, the sea calmed down and we all arrived in our destination safely.

It was Christmas Eve and I still had no place to stay. All hostels by the rocky beach seemed fully-booked and it was dark and quiet around. I had to make quick decisions that night, and I had already accepted that I would be spending Christmas Eve alone somewhere in this mysterious island.

I found myself swimming in this crowded hot spring resort late at night.  I thought I could stay awake until dawn but I felt really tired. So I crashed this empty security guard’s post as the heavy rain began to pour. Great, I didn't seem to mind where I was sleeping that night. I was exhausted and I all wanted to do was sleep. It was late and everyone was feasting and celebrating inside their homes. This was my night.

The security guards found me early that morning curled up on a small chair inside their post, and they all seemed bewildered for obvious reasons. These locals worked for the hot spring resort and they were all friendly and helpful. They shared their breakfast with me and we talked about how I ended up there. Then I was taken to this really cool locally owned guesthouse called “Enigmata”. It’s an artsy treetop lodge, with alternative-eco and tribal atmosphere. I was told that there was some celebration that previous night in there and all the guests had already left. It was good for me, the whole place was mine.

It was rainy all day but that didn't stop me to get to know this beautiful island through a 33 km motorbike day tour. My guide took me to hot and cold springs, underground cemetery, beaches and waterfalls. Travelers seemed intimidated to come here as this island is part of northern Mindanao.  And so all these natural attractions are still unspoiled by tourists, and out of all the places I've been to in this country, this volcanic island definitely stands out.

There’s a little sand island across where one can snorkel and swim in the clear waters. It’s a beautiful white sand beach where you can see the great view of Mt Hibok Hibok.  And here I met some friendly local travelers from Cagayan de Oro. 

No wild nightlife around here and it’s better that way. I've heard about the mushrooming foreign owned pricey guesthouses killing some local businesses like “Enigmata”. The foreign businessmen discovered the potential of this piece of hidden jewel and so they marry the locals to be entitled for land ownership, with the local women serving as their key to paradise. This is a typical scenario in the Philippine countryside and this is how a place becomes commercialized eventually.

This is one of the best islands I've been too and definitely worth seeing again. Everything that nature can offer, it's all in one island - Camiguin.

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Surf's Up in Siargao!

I came to Siargao to fulfill one thing in my Bucketlist - Learn some watersport. I was traveling around Visayas and Mindanao during my long Holiday Christmas vacation, started from Bohol Island and ended up in Siargao Island. And here is where I learned surfing. 

“It’s like the mafia. Once you’re in, you’re in. There’s no getting out.”

It was life-changing.

And I wonder how come I was spending the rest of my life elsewhere. Here in Siargao is where the real cool people hang out. Foreigners call this home forever. This is where the local surfer dudes live with their beautiful young French or Russian girlfriends. Surprisingly, it’s the other way around here.  The surfing mecca in Mindanao, a tear-drop shaped island in the Philippine Sea in the province of Surigao del Norte. Cloud 9 is the place to be, with a worldwide reputation for thick hollow tubes and one of the best known surfing waves in Siargao. And for the noobs like me, don’t you dare surf these waves yet. Or you die!

After enduring the 3 hour stormy boat ride from Surigao, seating on a hard bench of this over-sized banca with some tarp above to protect the passengers from heavy rain, I finally arrived. I took the motorbike taxi with roof and headed to the famous Cloud 9 to look for accommodation. I found the cheapest room in Ocean 101 resort for P500 a night. I was pretty sure I could still find some cheaper rooms in the neighborhood or some locals' place. But with the view of the crashing waves and the beautiful green scenery around, what else could I ask for. This is what happens when you have a job and you can splurge your salary for a mere 2 week vacation (sarcasm). No regrets.

Cloud 9 is not for the beginner, the whole beach stretch is a reef break. That means expect to get hurt here and there, blood and cuts on your hands and feet whenever you fall off the surfboard. The waves are crazy big but thank God there are some baby waves available for noobs just near Ocean 101 resort. I was a bit hesitant at first to try surfing because I was scared as usual. But this is what I came here for. I waited for a couple of hours for my instructor. And the fun began.

I could not count how many times I fell off the surfboard. I remembered my instructor saying that if one could not stand up, then he or she don't have to pay. But what a shame if other people did it and I could not. I did not give up. So I tried and tried, I did not care about the cuts, and bruises all over my body anymore. No guts, no glory. That moment, all I want was a chance to experience the whole ride.

I pushed myself upward once again, fighting the rushing waves below me. And very quickly I stood up and spread my legs for balance. I squatted a little bit and maintained this posture for a couple of seconds as the white water pushed me towards the shore. I was ecstatic. That moment I realized what those adrenaline junkies felt as they surf the waves. The rush. It was truly memorable. It was addicting. Right now I may not be as good as the others but from that moment on, I am still surfing.

Surfing is this hobby of these cool Siargao locals, I heard them one time saying, “it’s time to play”, in my language. This is what some young local girls with beautiful tanned bodies do after class or during class. Surf is life.

Surfing season is from April to October. The Siargao cup competition is one of the biggest international sporting events in the country held during late September or early October every year. You can go walk along the long wooden bridge of Cloud 9 and stay at the top to witness this momentous event.

What better way to celebrate New Year’s eve than to party with the surfers in this surfing paradise. The unforgettable Ocean 101’s buffet for the “Media Noche” with a few new-found friends completed my whole vacation. Club hopping afterwards with some travelers from all over the world, drinking and having fun as if it was our last night on earth. Life is a party.

Unfortunately my German friends failed to go with me to fulfill our island-hopping plan as promised. They came back to our guesthouse the next morning still drunk from New Year’s Eve partying, and spent their whole day sleeping.

Well there is my good Alice, a new friend who works in Ocean 101 and also my surfing instructor. She showed me around this laidback town on her motorbike. And just when I thought Siargao is only all about surfing, there’s this Magpupungko Beach with its amazing tidal pool and rock formations where children and some locals go cliff diving. Go rent a motorbike to explore the town or invite your friends to go with you for some island hopping.

My stay in Siargao gave me an alternative, a lifestyle I can choose should I get tired from traveling. This is the place where you want to live the eat-sleep-surf kind of life. 

Home is where the waves are.

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A Slice of Paradise - Calaguas Island

I decided to visit the Bicol region and this time I brought a friend from Europe. My original plan was to visit Donsol to swim with the whalesharks, however I fell in love with Calaguas Island in Camarines Norte, and so we decided to just stay here for the rest of my holiday.

It would be nice to travel with someone sometimes, especially if you share some similar views. Though at times it’s a little difficult to travel in your own country with a foreigner, particularly if the person is a first-timer in Asia, oftentimes I found myself explaining all the differences, and when I get fed up, I get a bit defensive. I tried to understand but all the grumbles get into me sometimes. And the violent reaction is switched on once again. But somehow I was able to minimize the violent mood swings until the end.

We took the 7 hour bus ride from Manila to Daet and arrived in our destination way too early. We tried to find the jeepney going to Vinzon’s place or to the Pandawan fish port, where we could take the passenger’s boat to Brgy. Banocboc. I guess the people were trying to trick us with the schedule of the boat so we could choose to rent one for P7000, which is way too expensive for us. It’s more than what we could afford. The people at the port told us that the boat will leave at 1:00 pm. So we left and decided to hang out in Bagasbas beach at the crack of dawn.

We watched the sun as it slowly exposed itself from the small waves of Bagasbas beach. We fell asleep to that surreal moment. Then I woke up and looked at my phone, the tricycle driver who took us to this beach sent a message about the boat schedule. The passenger’s boat was leaving at 9am.

We arrived in Brgy. Banocboc after 1 hour, and the views on the way are amazing. And from this small village we took another 30 minute boat ride to the small island they called “Mahabang Buhangin”.

I was completely stunned when I saw the long stretch of powdery white sand. It was so bright and as white as snow, glowing under the November sun. The sand was smooth and flat, no signs of footprints anywhere, no people around that time. The emerald water is truly inviting, cold and clear, and underneath is the soft sand that melts in your feet. This is heaven.

Calaguas is a dreamy place, probably the best island I have visited to date, a hidden piece of paradise probably reserved for 2 people who just want to get lost in time. There are some cottages you can rent if you do not have a tent, or one can probably just sleep outside and watch the night get lit with thousands of flickering stars.

The next day, we rented this small wooden boat with a small hole at the bottom and paddled to another island across, there are some good spots for snorkeling around here. We climbed up the hill in this empty island to get a full view of Calaguas, and watched the waves slowly crashing to these big rocks below us.

And to end the day, we watched the rosy sunset flood over the sea. Everything about this place is beautiful and mysterious . . . .

You can walk through the grassy farm towards the small village if you need anything. There are some small sari-sari stores where you can buy some canned foods or rice. The caretaker in the beach can also cook something for you. And one night, we saw this one tree glowing with fireflies. We went under it and watched in awe. It was a very magical moment.

The place was magical and seemed all unreal. I couldn't express the beauty of it in mere words. Perhaps I could have written more about it, should I have been alone. But now it seems that it hurts to remember all the good memories, happiness was shared and the place became special. I don’t know if I should regret bringing someone into this kind of setting, because I know that it will make all the difference. It was a fleeting moment. It was beautiful.

It was my own paradise . . . .

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The Way Back

I felt like I was awake the whole time. I envy my hunter friends sleeping soundly across me, almost hugging the fire. I hate it when everyone sleeps so easily while I’m the only one left awake.  It happens all the time. The heat of the fire didn't reach me though, so I went inside my tent in hopes of subsiding the feeling of coldness in my body. But it didn't do any good. The cold wind almost blew my whole shelter away. So I lay there, listening to the wind, waiting for the sunrise. I abandoned any hope of sleep.

Morning came so fast. I got out of my tent to let the fresh light of dawn shine upon me, and as usual everyone’s up and running. So I hurriedly packed my stuff, it was time to go home.

The problem was we didn't have any food left for the day, and my guides were asking me if I can endure walking for long hours without eating. I didn't have any choice, and I didn't want to let them starve as well. We all headed off early following a different route this time.

I had several blisters around my feet. This has always been a trip killer. It was neither the sleeplessness nor the hunger that was bothering me at this point, it was the pain I felt every step I took. I endured the silent torture as I walked very slowly. I glanced at my guides who were way too ahead of me, and then I thought I could walk like them and be like them, but my skin was telling me otherwise. It was too late to save it, and I knew that I would suffer the consequences when I get back to Manila. The lack of proper clothing and preparation lead to pain and suffering, I guess I underestimated everything again.

We stopped by to check out some campers, some relatives of Benny who left a freshly killed monitor lizard or “bayawak” and some of their stuff. And so we waited, in high hopes of having something to eat from them. Benny made some rice coffee for us, and it somehow energized my tired body. And that was all what we had for the whole 8 hours.

We left the camp as we could not wait any longer, we didn't have that much time. Avoiding the lahar dessert this time, we crossed the top of the mountain, passing through the narrow path hiding underneath the tall slippery grasses in between two different landscapes. One wrong step and I would be slipping to either side, back to square one. It was a little difficult to determine which way to go. I felt stupid for not being able to quickly analyze the path, and so I had to let one of my guides lead the way. We did this for the next couple of hours under the heat of the sun.

“One truck of bread”, I was imagining things . . . food, hunger was slowly creeping out like venomous snake.  I felt disoriented, but I didn't want to be such a pain in the ass. I endured the pain, hunger and exhaustion just to get back to Ibad before it gets dark. They had promised me that they would take me to this hidden lake somewhere along the way, but it would take hours again to get there. So they had let me decide, but from the looks of everyone, we knew that we might not enjoy it any longer as we didn't have that much strength for another long walk. We continued straight home.

Marching triumphantly to Ibad, we were greeted by curious villagers. Everyone wanted to know what happened, they talked in language I couldn't understand. Then I sat down in exhaustion as people gathered around, looking at me pitifully as they saw the bruises around my arms.

It was late in the afternoon. I would have to stay here until the next day as no one could drive me back to the town anymore. I stayed with Katamtaman and his family. The exhaustion, silence and the early welcoming of the night brought me into a deep uninterrupted slumber.

The days flew like a fast train, my aching body and my blistered feet marked the end of my journey. And I carried back with me the vivid imagery of nature, lessons from simple living and collections of late night conversations printed in my head. And with me are memories with people to whom it is easy to do good, who are not used to have it done to them, who only have little and who will help you out the most. The ones I would be willing to spend my time with.

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Starry, Starry Night

It was getting dark. It was about time to settle down and eat a decent meal. We found a nice campsite beside the stream at the foot of the mountains. And to my surprise, Pag-o was able to catch a wild chicken, and I was as happy as a kid unwrapping a Christmas present. I was going to eat a chicken for the first time in 7 months, caught in the wild, fresh and organic. I couldn't wait to devour it like a hungry wolf.  Then I realized why they had asked me to bring only a half kilo of rice. We would all depend on nature for food.

My hunter-gatherer friends brought some wild orchids to our campground. They will sell this when we get back. I went around the rocky mountain and gathered some for myself as well, though I know that I should take nothing but pictures. I just thought that it would be nice to have the plant as a nice memento of my quest, feeling like an ancient warrior bringing home some loot after a victorious war.

After a well-deserved meal, we sat down on the cold ground as our campfire flickered like dancers in yellow dresses, exchanging stories between two different worlds, living in one same home. 

As the night grew colder, we lay down on our own comfortable bed behind stones of various sizes, like soldiers hiding behind army tanks. A cold November night in a desolate corner of the mountains, a thousand glimmering stars lit up the darkness, there I was again, lying and gazing up above the sky in pleasure.

My friends were in deep slumber, cramped around the fire, while I lay there across them, witnessing the whole fantasy unfolded. It was too good to let it pass. I felt the cool breeze of the wind whispering to my ear like a lover. The dark foggy mountains became visible beneath the pale moon as the relaxing sound of the rushing water from the stream broke the deep silence of the night, and a few fireflies lit the face of the mountains from time to time. This was a very spectacular moment. I had watched this somewhere else before, a familiar epic scene . . . or maybe this was in my dream.

And again, this is what it is to be happy . . . .

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An Epic Journey to Mt. Pinatubo

I was swaying from side to side like a lost drunkard, gripping the grass for support feeling dizzy and weak. And for the first time that day, I begged for a rest. One final climb, they said, and we would rest there in the shade between the mountain walls. When we had reached this narrow pathway, I fell to my knees. I had been walking and climbing for 6 hours straight with an empty stomach. The ascent was consuming too much of my energy. I couldn't remember taking breakfast or lunch as I was too excited that morning, that I had even forgotten to bring enough food for us. I was only asked to buy a half kilo of rice, and that was all what we had. I sat heavily on the ground with my back against the rocky wall, still catching my breath. Like a desperate survivor, I distributed my 4 nut bars. I was so hungry I could eat a wild boar alive.

Garry, Benny and Pag-o had been doing some wild foraging as we passed through the wilderness. I was awed by the hunting prowess of my guides, when one of them would suddenly run fast in attempt to kill a low flying wild chicken with their sling, or when they would look underneath the boulders for some ”bayawak” or monitor lizard. They were telling me that if we get lucky, we could even catch a wild boar. I wished that they had caught either a wild boar or a bayawak. I was prepared to eat anything that time. 

I felt ashamed that I could no longer push myself up the vertical face of the mountain, and that I had to grab their hands to let them pull me up further. When I was totally depending on their strength, they realized how heavy I am. I was still able to put more weight on my legs with my feet against the wall during the first part of the climb. However this time, I almost wished they had let me go, and I would let myself be hurled down to the bottom. 

The abundance of water was keeping me revitalized. Whenever we passed by some rocky stream, we would all stop, and I would happily drink the clean flowing water like there’s no tomorrow. It was an instant joy to a thirsty soul.

My arms were once again full of cuts and scratches due to the stems and thorns of some random plants in the mountains. I guess my skin is really thin. This is the same dilemma I had in Pico de Loro, but this time it didn't bother me anymore. It was quite disturbing to look at, with all the short and long red cuts intersecting each other, like those lines and patterns you solve in logic tests. The cuts still looked fresh and swollen, and I wished I could retain it this way when I get back to Manila. It is perfectly okay to get hurt naturally, this is the time when pain becomes sweet.

Going up and down the slopes, back to dessert-walk, then up and down again, the varying conditions made this a truly remarkable adventure. It wasn't boring at all. If I hadn't been hungry, I could have enjoyed the whole journey more. 

And at last we had reached the foot of Mt. Pinatubo after 8 hours of traversing the surrounding mountain range. Disguising as small and innocent, with the alternating green carpet of grass and jagged gray slopes, I thought it was an easy climb up. Though it was stripped down to 1,145 meters after its eruption in 1991, the volcano is still high and mighty, and that it would take another half day to reach the crater lake.  I was a bit sad as this was my whole point of going here. I was hoping to swim in the lake after the long tiresome trek. There was quite a misunderstanding though, as my guides thought that I would just camp at the foot of the volcano, just like the others they had lead here in the past. In spite of my pleas, climbing up would be impossible at this point. They must have thought I was going crazy. We didn't have enough food.

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